V.А. Bykov, М.V. Аlekseev, А.I. Vorotnikov, I.V. Matveychuk, Yu.V. Abramov

Phyto-based drugs have a wide range of biological activity and are widely used for prevention and treatment of many diseases. The fraction of phyto-based drugs in the pharmaceutical markets of industrialized countries now reaches about 50 %. Over the last decade the research work, carrying out in the field of phytotherapy, became more. Thus, the total number of indexed scientific publications for the period from 1990 to 2007, contained in the database «Medline» of the National Library of medicine United States (US National Library of Medicine) in the section «phytotherapy research», as of April 2010, has made already 21213 sources. The most perspective market for phyto-based drugs application is the market of cosmetical products. It is predicted that in 2012 the largest segment by sales in the pharmaceutical market will remain skin care products, which will make not less than 62 % of the market all cosmetic pharmacy. Most often the modern curative cosmetics included plant origin bioactive components, antioxidants and flavonoids, designed to maintain the texture and strength healthy and pathologically altered skin. Vegetable oils, which are traditionally used in pharmaceutics and cosmetics as the auxiliary components which are a part of medicinal forms, intended for external application, everyone, now are more often applied as independent biologically active components of cosmetic compositions. Range of vegetable oils, presented on the market of medicinal and cosmetic raw materials, has grown significantly in recent years. Skin pigmentation deseases are one of the most actual problem of modern cosmetology. It is well known that all types of plants that contain phenols, phenolcarboxylic acids and derivatives of simple sulphides have potential bleaching effect Bearberry extract containing arbutin is the most permanent component of most bleach cosmetics. In other cosmetic compositions licorice root extract containing glabridin is used as the main bleach component. Regenerating plant origin additives are widely used in modern cosmetics. The large use in cosmetology have phytohormones. These substances often included in the common group, linked by «Phytoestrogens», that includes flavonony, flavones, isoflavones (flavonoids), kumestanes, lignanes and halkones. Transdermal drug delivery systems have undergone a significant evolution in recent years. The technologies of encapsulating are widely applied in modern cosmetics. All these systems have a common ability to provide the prolonged release of the biologically active substance from medium. Cosmeceuticals is the most actively developing direction in practical application of liposomes. By assessments of the American experts, in the near future the sales of liposomes in the world market will make 2025 % from all means of delivery of biologically active components. The most valuable property of liposomes for cosmetics is their ability to initiate a reparative processes in the skin. Transdermal patches, as a form of medical films, are the innovative form of cosmetics, often used in modern cosmetology. Scope of the using of transdermal patches in modern cosmetology is rapidly growing. Transdermal cosmetical patches may contain various plant extractions, including biogenic stimulators, tonic substances, substances with reparative, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory activity, immunostimulators and adaptogenes.